Hello folks.
Did you know Hitoyoshi in Kumamoto?
Hitoyoshi city, located in kumamoto prefecture, is often called the “Kyoto of the West.”
This charming city attracts many tourists with its abundant onsen, hot springs, and historic streetscapes.
In Hitoyoshi, you can indulge in gourmet delights.
The city is famous for Kuma Shochu, a traditional Japanese distilled spirit made from rice and sweet potatoes.
Additionally, the eel raised in the pristine waters of the Kuma River is exceptionally delicious.
Also, Hitoyoshi is also a renowned pilgrimage site for fans of the manga “Natsume’s Book of Friends.”
Lastly, one of Hitoyoshi’s charms is that it’s not overly touristy due to its somewhat challenging access.
It looks like a place where you can escape the hustle and bustle, enjoy delicious food, and relax in Onsen!
So, let’s start the journey!
Overview of the 1-day trip itinerary in Hitoyoshi
Here is a rough schedule.
- 09:30 Arrived at Hitoyoshi station and rent a bicycle
- 10:00 Brunch at Uemura Unagi (kabayaki-eel)
- 11:00 Onsen at Shin-Onsen
- 12:00 Cycling around great Kuma-River
- 12:30 Pray at Aoi-Aso Shrine
- 13:30 Onsen again at Tsutsumi-Onsen
- 14:30 Tea break at Kura-kura cafe on the hilltop
- 16:00 Get souvenir at Hitoyoshi-Bussankan
09:30 Arrived at Hitoyoshi station and rent a bicycle
On August 2017, I arrived at the Hitoyoshi-station.
What looks like a castle is actually a doll clock and it plays music on the hour.
First, secure your means of travel.
You can rent a bicycle in Hitoyoshi for 500 yen for up to 4 hours or 1000 yen for up to 8 hours.
Advance booking is also available.
For exploring Hitoyoshi, renting a bicycle is the best option. The entire city is small and flat, making it perfect for cycling.
10:00 Brunch at Uemura Unagi (kabayaki-eel)
The first stop is Uemura-Unagi, kabayaki-eel, which boasts a 115-year tradition of serving delicious eel dishes.
Uemura opens at 10 a.m. and closes when they run out of stock. Actually,when I arrived just before 10 a.m., there were already 20 groups waiting in line.
So it’s highly recommended to line up before 10 a.m.
Uemura Unagi has been recognized as one of the Tabelog’s top 100 restaurants, a highly respected guide when choosing where to dine.
Look out for the “Tabelog’s Top Restaurant” orange-colored seal outside the establishment.
If you spot it, it is definitely worth a visit.
The Unagi has arrived. The dish was cooked to order, ensuring freshness.
It’s crispy on the outside and tender inside, with a sauce that’s perfectly balanced—not too sweet.
It’s the most delicious Unagi I’ve ever had.
It is worth 3,000 yen.
As a dessert after the meal, I had “Miso-Manju” , sweet bun, from Hamada-ya right in front of Uemura Unagi.
Its mild sweetness was soothing for my stomach. If I am not wrong, it costed under 200 yen.
Don’t hesitate to buy just one sweet bun. It’s not considered rude in Japan.
11:00 Onsen at Shin-Onsen
It was August, and the heat had me sweating profusely. I opted for a visit to the onsen.
Shin-Onsen, Hitoyoshi’s public bath and conveniently situated just behind Uemura Unagi, offered entry for a mere 300 yen.
Dressing room is sparkling clean.
You can securely store your belongings in the locker and the keep the key with you.
Two bathtubs, deep and mildly hot at 42 degrees celsius. The temperature is not too hot in Onsen.
The sweat vanished. It was truly sublime.
12:00 Cycling around great Kuma-River
Next up is the Kuma River.
You can admire the impressive sight of the Hitoyoshi castle ruins across the river
The river is quite wide, and the water is highly transparent.
The sky looks quite vast. I believe it is not easy to immerse myself in this majestic nature in Japan.
I feel incredibly refreshed. (So here, cycling is the important! )
12:30 Pray at Aoi-Aso Shrine
Then, I cycled for about 10 minutes to reach Aoi-Aso Shrine.
I was astonished by the thickness of the thatched roof.
This might be Japanese nature, but whenever I find a shrine, I always stop by to pray.
Otherwise, I feel I have done something wrong.
13:30 Onsen again at Tsutsumi-Onsen
I started sweating again. That’s summer in Japan for you.
So, I decided to head back to the onsen.
Next stop: Tsutsumi Onsen, just a 10-minute bicycle ride from Aoi-Aso Shrine.
At the entrance, there’s a signboard explaining the benefits of the onsen.
The board looks quite aged, saying it was written in 1958.
The onsen offers entry for 200 yen.
Sometimes, no one is at the counter, but let’s make sure to pay the entrance fee properly in the collection box.
When I arrived, there was nobody else too in the bathtub, yet the onsen was overflowing, making the bathwater fresh.
Soaking in onsen with 100% natural spring water flowing directly from the source is the epitome of luxury.
The bathtub looks aged, but it is perfectly cleaned, of course.
I feel very comfortable with this astringency and its authenticity.
14:30 Tea break at Kura-kura cafe on the hilltop
Feeling a bit weary from the onsen, I decided to take a break and enjoy some tea.
I hailed a taxi for a 10-minute ride to reach Kura-kura Café, nestled on the hilltop.
While the café primarily serves French cuisine, they warmly welcomed me just for a cup of tea.
Perched on a hilltop, the cafe offers a breathtaking view overlooking the Kuma River.
Perfect for those seeking a slightly upscale café experience.
The premises also feature a gallery, allowing for a leisurely time spent.
16:00 Get souvenir at Hitoyoshi-Bussankan
Last but not least, I wanted to pick up a souvenir at Hitoyoshi-Bussankan, the local products center.
Yubeshi, a delicious blend of yuzu and miso, is perfect for enjoying with sake as a snack, and it’s unique to the Hitoyoshi area.
I couldn’t find any stores selling it online.
Then, I returned the bicycle and the trip finished.
With the soothing fatigue and the gentle rocking of the train, I fell into a deep sleep and returned to Kumamoto Station.
What did you think?
I’d be thrilled if I could help shed light on the hidden gems of Hitoyoshi and showcase its unique charm!
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